Going back to basics

From leisure battery

 
 
 
 
 
 
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Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #1
Hello I would like to go back to basic wiring from my leisure battery from battey iv bought a 50amp cut off switch to connect to fuse box to run water pump internal lights 1500 inverter for tv and freesat box can anyone help me with the wiring I need from battery to cut off switch then wiring to fuse box and so on I bought my stuff from ali express


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Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #2
Quote by Vinny

Hello I would like to go back to basic wiring from my leisure battery from battey iv bought a 50amp cut off switch to connect to fuse box to run water pump internal lights 1500 inverter for tv and freesat box can anyone help me with the wiring I need from battery to cut off switch then wiring to fuse box and so on I bought my stuff from ali express


What exactly do you want to do. you can simply put it in the earth circuit or the live side close to the battery without reducing the cable sizes.


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #3
Quote by Vinny

Hello I would like to go back to basic wiring from my leisure battery from battey iv bought a 50amp cut off switch to connect to fuse box to run water pump internal lights 1500 inverter for tv and freesat box can anyone help me with the wiring I need from battery to cut off switch then wiring to fuse box and so on I bought my stuff from ali express


A 1500w inverter can pull up to 125 amps, depending on the connected load, a 50 amp rated switch in the circuit is seriously underrated.

Incidentally, a TV + Sat Box would be more than covered by a 150w inverter or even a 75w one.

Something like a 1500w inverter is only needed for heavy loads like a toaster, microwave, camping kettle (1000w), hairdryer, etc., but only for a few minutes otherwise, there's a risk of seriously flattening the battery and shortening its service life.
Also, it is recommended that the battery bank should be double the possible load from an inverter so with a potential load of 125amps you should have at least 2 X 110 amp deep cycle batteries.
200w or 300w of solar would be recommended to compensate for such use.


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #4
Quote by sprinter

Quote by Vinny

Hello I would like to go back to basic wiring from my leisure battery from battey iv bought a 50amp cut off switch to connect to fuse box to run water pump internal lights 1500 inverter for tv and freesat box can anyone help me with the wiring I need from battery to cut off switch then wiring to fuse box and so on I bought my stuff from ali express


What exactly do you want to do. you can simply put it in the earth circuit or the live side close to the battery without reducing the cable sizes.
ok ur right I did not phrase it right here goes I want to connect using pos and neg cable fro leisure battery to this 50amp cut off switch then from that pos and neg cable to fuse box to be able to connect all my 12v things in one place as they are a bit of mess and sometimes blow fuses if I touch wrong wire leave the inverter out as that's connected already to battery for tv and box what type of cable should I get when I go to halfords


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #5
Quote by baguette

Quote by Vinny

Hello I would like to go back to basic wiring from my leisure battery from battey iv bought a 50amp cut off switch to connect to fuse box to run water pump internal lights 1500 inverter for tv and freesat box can anyone help me with the wiring I need from battery to cut off switch then wiring to fuse box and so on I bought my stuff from ali express


A 1500w inverter can pull up to 125 amps, depending on the connected load, a 50 amp rated switch in the circuit is seriously underrated.

Incidentally, a TV + Sat Box would be more than covered by a 150w inverter or even a 75w one.

Something like a 1500w inverter is only needed for heavy loads like a toaster, microwave, camping kettle (1000w), hairdryer, etc., but only for a few minutes otherwise, there's a risk of seriously flattening the battery and shortening its service life.
Also, it is recommended that the battery bank should be double the possible load from an inverter so with a potential load of 125amps you should have at least 2 X 110 amp deep cycle batteries.
200w or 300w of solar would be recommended to compensate for such use.
I am going to leave inverter out for time been just gonna clamp that to leisure battery and plug telly in


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #6
I doubt that it’s a 1500 watt inverter if you just clamp it on. Are you sure it’s not 150 watt.
You will only fuse the positive. The negatives can be joined together. What size leisure battery?? The fuse size should be decided by the cable size, not the other way around. You need to calculate your max load , at any given time, size your cable accordingly and then your fuse according to the cable size, to protect the cable


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 30.01.2021  ·  #7
Quote by Daffysparks

I doubt that it’s a 1500 watt inverter if you just clamp it on. Are you sure it’s not 150 watt.
You will only fuse the positive. The negatives can be joined together. What size leisure battery?? The fuse size should be decided by the cable size, not the other way around. You need to calculate your max load , at any given time, size your cable accordingly and then your fuse according to the cable size, to protect the cable
ok say I want to put 15amp fuse in fuse box what size wire should I use it's a factory made 92 burnster I just want to get wires fixed properly and all running from same fuse box


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 31.01.2021  ·  #8
From battery to fuse box you need a fuse capable of protecting the supply cable. 50 amps for 10 square mm. 60 for 16 square mm. If you want to use a 15 amp fuse for this ( very small) then 2.5 square mm cable will suffice. These figures are not set in stone as you need to take into consideration the length of the wire. Volt drop is a significant factor in 12 volt systems. Up size the cable, keeping the same size fuse for runs over a couple of metres.
Bigger cable won’t do any harm, just fuse according to your load.


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 31.01.2021  ·  #9
Quote by Daffysparks

From battery to fuse box you need a fuse capable of protecting the supply cable. 50 amps for 10 square mm. 60 for 16 square mm. If you want to use a 15 amp fuse for this ( very small) then 2.5 square mm cable will suffice. These figures are not set in stone as you need to take into consideration the length of the wire. Volt drop is a significant factor in 12 volt systems. Up size the cable, keeping the same size fuse for runs over a couple of metres.
Bigger cable won’t do any harm, just fuse according to your load.
that's great cheers for the advise


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 31.01.2021  ·  #10
To figure out the voltage drop along a run(very important with 12V) I use 12V planet 12V planet link

I also bought a distribution box from 12V planet like the one below. Once you know your fusing this makes it a lot easier as it uses the cheap and very available blade fuses. As Daffysparks said you fuse to protect the cable.

 


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 31.01.2021  ·  #11
Quote by insider

To figure out the voltage drop along a run(very important with 12V) I use 12V planet 12V planet link

I also bought a distribution box from 12V planet like the one below. Once you know your fusing this makes it a lot easier as it uses the cheap and very available blade fuses. As Daffysparks said you fuse to protect the cable.

 

👍👍👍


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Re: Going back to basics

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Posted: 01.02.2021  ·  #12
I think it would be of great benefit to you to put a schematic drawing together before you start. You can look over your drawing for appraisal or to improve upon your design. It will lay things out in your mind in manageable sections. Even the simplest of wiring jobs can be confusing at times. It helps when you have a drawing to look at and you know your design is good.

Here is a scan of mine if it helps. I hope it is clear enough. Like you, I don't have a dedicated controller so it is a hodge podge of separate components. I did a re-wiring job myself a couple of years back. I beefed up the cabling (35 mm2 for split-charge), and added a few new components.

 


The alternator charging comes in from the left via relay 2. This relay is triggered via the VSR. That VSR did used to supply the split-charge current once upon a time. It is one of those Ring Smartcom , supposed camper split-charge relays. It is far too weedy for the job, so it has been relegated to just being a voltage sensitive relay to close a much beefier Citrix relay (RL2) to supply the split charge. It also triggers a second relay, relay 1 , to supply 12V to the fridge.

The leisure battery supplies the rail voltage to the fuse box via relay 3. This is the normally closed contact. When EHU is connected, that relay flips to take the rail voltage from an SMPS power supply instead. The reason why I do that is because the Maypole Mains charger will not give a proper charge if the battery is under load.

Again I can't over emphasise the importance of putting a schematic drawing/ sketch together of what it is you want to do.

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